“We met frequent caravans of the Malo-Russians [Eastern Ukrainians], who differ altogether from the inhabitants of the rest of Russia. Their features are those of the Polonese or Cossacks. They are a more noble race, and stouter and better-looking people than the Russians, and superior to them in every thing that can exalt one set of men above another. They are cleaner, more industrious, more honest, more generous, more polite, more courageous, more hospitable, more truly pious, and of course less superstitious… They have in many instances converted the desolate steppes into corn fields…
The next place we came to was Dobrinka; and here, for the first time, we found an establishment of Cossacks, although but few appeared, and even these mixed with Malo-Russians. The church was new, a large and handsome white building, erected by the Emperor Paul. Others of the same nature appeared in most of the neighbouring villages. That of Dobrinka makes a conspicuous appearance several miles before the traveller reaches it. If happiness could be found under the Russian government, it might be said to dwell in Dobrinka, a peaceable and pleasant spot, full of neat little white cottages, tenanted by a healthy and apparently contented society. They live in the greatest tranquillity, removed from all the spies, tax-gatherers, police-officers, and other despots of the country. We were received into one of the courtyards, which they all have before their houses, with a hearty welcome and smiling countenances, very different from the lowering brows and contracted suspicious eyes, to which we had been so often accustomed.
At sunset, all the cows belonging to the inhabitants came, in one large troop, lowing into the village. No driver was necessary; for, as the herd entered, they separated into parties, and retired of their own accord to their respective owners, in order to be milked. The Malo-Russians, with their numerous families, were seated on the ground in circles before their neat little habitations, eating their supper; and, being all happy and merry together, offered a picture of contentment…
We began to perceive that the farther we advanced from the common hordes of the Russians, the more politeness and hospitality we should experience; exactly the reverse of that which we had been taught to expect by the inhabitants of Moscow.” (Dr. Edward Clarke, Travels in Russia, 1800)
Eastern Ukraine, Don region 220 years ago: Edward Clarke’s eyewitness account of the population >
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